Knowing when to quit

Ok, so I was working on another summer maternity project for the Vintage Pattern Pledge (and to give myself one more garment for the hot weather, but......things just aren't working out. I have had this 1950s pants/shorts pattern in my stash for a while and have always been intrigued about how they work, since they're designed for wovens and don't feature the gaping hole in front that many of the old skirt patterns have in order to make room for your stomach. I had enough denim left from my overalls to make up the shorts, more as an experiment than anything else. I wasn't ever super invested in having them be wearable, although that would have been a bonus. I got them cut out and mostly sewn up. Then I tried them on.

The front panels that extend out in order to overlap and cover everything up are doing something hella weird. I'm not sure if it's because of stretching not he curved edges or what, but it makes them poke out all crazy, and while shifting the waistband down a couple of inches at the front edges and then tapering the adjustment out to the side seams makes that stop, then it does all kinds of weird stuff to the grain at the top edge, and yadda yadda yadda. After letting them sit around for a couple of weeks trying to decide how to fix them I've decided I'm not going to bother.

My to-do list for the next ten-ish weeks is insane, and I've got PLENTY of other stuff to occupy my time with than trying to make a pair of shorts I'll wear for three weeks fit right. I didn't spend anything on the fabric, it took all of about an hour and a half of work so far. I'm not out anything. Chalk it up to experience.

I've been working on a knitting project that I'm about 30% finished with (a mohair cardigan from GORGEOUS yarn that came from a local goat farm), and I've got a couple of other things I want to try and get finished this summer, which will require starting pretty soon since my sewing time is about to disappear almost completely. I've still got at least two patterns to get through for the Vintage Pattern Pledge, and I think I may start one of those in the near future. It's non-maternity, but I've used it before and I've got my alteration/fitting notes, so I'm pretty confident I can work on it without being able to fit it on myself as I go.

The brief cold snap we had this week finally broke and I took advantage of the sunny (although chilly) day to spend some time outside getting these puppies thinned and transferred into peat pots. I've still got a while before it's time to put summer crops in the ground, but I've got some cole crops in for the first time right now that I'm pretty excited about. We'll see how they do.

Hope everyone else is getting to enjoy some nice spring weather!

Playsuit Sew-Along Part 2

I've now finished the next two pieces of the planned four for my playsuit. The shorts and blouse were from two more patterns in my vintage pattern stash. The shorts pattern is from the playsuit pattern that I mentioned before, Advance 2407, which I still need to get a better picture of. I can't find one anywhere on the internet for it, so you'll just have to be patient. I made the shorts as a separate piece, eliminating the blouse portion of the playsuit and opting for a simpler, later style of blouse from the other pattern, New York 1292. I don't really have much to say about these two pieces, as they are fairly simple and went together quickly and easily, so without further ado, here are the photos of the finished shorts, blouse and halter from the previous post all together. 

And here is the halter top with the shorts...

The fourth and final piece I'll be making is a coordinating skirt in a solid; something that will be very easy to incorporate into my existing wardrobe. The fabric I'm using is a purplish-navy linen/rayon blend that matches very nicely with the blue stripe in the seersucker. I'll be using New York 1292 for the skirt as well, but I'm not going to add the triangular appliquéd pieces on the sides as I do want to maintain a simpler, cleaner line. Originally I was thinking of using a 1970s skirt pattern that I have. It's very similar in style, A-line and with buttons down the front, but it's a slimmer skirt, and I think that this slightly fuller A-line will work better with the other playsuit pieces. 

And just for good measure, here's my little helper. He just turned one a few weeks ago. I can't believe how big he's getting! (He hates when I try and wipe his face, which is why it's covered in blueberry oatmeal). 

Have a great week!

Spotted Summer Ensemble

This post includes a few different projects, all of which started with the same piece of fabric as inspiration. Some of you may remember this dress that I made last summer.

The pattern was one of the Butterick re-issues, and the fabric was a birthday present from my mom a few years ago. It was a vintage cotton, almost lawn in weight, with flocked dots in red. When she gave it to me she said "I know there are at least four yards". Great! Just enough for a dress. When I went to cut this dress out, though, as I unfolded my yardage to wash it, it just kept unfolding further and further. You were right, Mom. There were at least four. In fact, there were FOUR-TEEN yards of this stuff. It was great because as vintage yard goods, it was only about 36 inches wide, but still. Fourteen yards is quite a hefty amount. I had so much left I decided to make another dress out of it, but using the reverse side of the fabric this time for a slightly different look this go around.

The pattern that I used was Vogue 1137.

I was immediately in love with this pattern. After measuring all of the pieces and comparing the body measurements and finished garment measurements I cut out a size 12 at bust and hip, and a size 10 at the waist. This is a pretty standard ratio for me on modern patterns, especially from the any of the Big Four companies. I also shortened the hem a few inches, another common adjustment I make in order to accommodate my 5'4'' and a more modern hem length. I made a few other adjustments as well, to suit my own taste. I eliminated the front darts in the skirt, pinning them out before I cut my fabric. I did this first of all, because I like a flatter fit in the front, but also to keep from interrupting the grid of red dots as much as possible. I also changed the neckline, raising it to a boat neck in front and a much deeper V in back. The entire dress is lined in white muslin, because this fabric is so thin. The pieces all fit together beautifully, even after my alterations, and the fit is perfect. While I liked the original style of the pattern to begin with, it makes a wonderful base for adaptation.

Once I had the dress nearly finished, I pondered what kind of embellishment I wanted to do. I knew I was going to make a coordinating belt from some stash red cotton, and my first idea was to run thin red piping around the neckline. My mom suggested instead making button tabs on the shoulders, which turned out to be the idea I went with, also adding some at the side vents in the skirt.

 I finished the belt with a vintage shell buckle I found on Etsy a long time ago, which matches the mother of pearl buttons on the tabs. The belt carriers are thread loops.

I'm pretty sure this is my new favorite dress. It's so summery and comfortable, but can still be very dressy if I need it to be. I love the way it fits as well. It's an extremely flattering dress, and I will be using the pattern in future without doubt. I would love to do a dress and coat ensemble like the envelope, but that will have to wait, as I don't have any coat fabric in my stash and am not permitting myself to buy any quantities of fabric until I've finished several more projects.

Continuing my stash busting efforts, even after making this dress I had enough fabric left to do something with, so I decided to make a playsuit. The pattern I used is an original that I found at a local antique store a couple of years ago. I haven't been able to pin down a specific year, but it appears to be from around 1940, give or take a couple of years.

And here is the playsuit....

Again, I apologize for all the wrinkles. I took these pictures in the middle of moving into the new house, and didn't have my ironing board yet, nor the time to iron everything anyway. The bow is a detachable pin, which I have also worn pinned at the center back of the V-neck on the previous dress, and their are thread loop belt carriers on the playsuit as well so I can also wear the belt with this if I don't want to wear the overskirt.

My bound buttonholes on the skirt didn't turn out perfectly straight, but there was no correcting it once I realized it. Oh, well. The bow distracts from that slightly so it's not too bad. I usually end up wearing the playsuit without the skirt anyway, so it doesn't bother me too much. The skirt is lined with the very last bits of the red and white cotton. The playsuit is also fully lined due to the sheerness of the fabric, and I ended up putting a much longer zipper in the side so that it opened all the way to the top in order to make it easier to get in and out of. It's very comfortable and is one of my new favorite summer garments. I'd like to make another one in a more practical color for running around when it's 95º out.

A Year in Stitches

Since so many other people seem to be doing these recaps of their sewing projects from the past year, and since I have not been nearly as productive over the break as I had intended, I thought I might as well do one as well (also in an effort to remind myself that I have still been productive, despite the toll that grad school has taken on my sewing). So without further ado, here is a recap of my 2011 sewing...

January

A 1950s vest and circle skirt in windowpane plaid (not the best picture of me, but oh well). 

A 1930s silk blouse.

A plaid wool skirt from a 1946 pattern.

February

I started an 1870s corset, but it has been put on the back burner for now. 

A 1950s reproduction top in an 1970s reproduction print.

March

A 1960s blouse in a vintage feedsack cotton.

1930s natural color linen/rayon lounge pants.

An early 1930s blouse in a vintage feedsack cotton.

A 1960s repro sundress with matching belt (not shown).

 A 1940s seersucker playsuit.

April

Sky blue knit DKNY dress.

May

Purple knit DKNY dress.

June

Black 1930s lounge pants.

Polka-dot knit DKNY dress.

Knit wrap top.

Knit tank top.

Convertible sarong dress.

Tropical challis maxi dress.

July

Navy wool sailor shorts.

1951 tomato print blouse.

1950s repro blouse with matching belt.

1940s denim shorts.

Denim cigarette pants.

1950s flocked sundress with sash belt.

1950s polka-dot halter dress with bow belt.

1930s inspired challis dress.

1950s repro dress.

1950s suit, still on the back burner.

August

Sari blouse for my cousin's wedding.

Aqua knit DKNY dress for my cousin.

Red 1930s lounge pants.

Black double-knit tube dress (pardon the dusty mirror).

September

Blue knit tube dress with bloused top. 

Version of tropical maxi dress for my cousin.

1930s inspired challis dress.

I also made another of the green 1930s inspired challis for my cousin, but didn't take photos, as it looks just the same. 

I took quite a break from September to December, since school and relationships didn't allow for much sewing/crafting time. I did however finish a sweater over the break...

December

1930s lace sweater.

And I also got half way through a scarf for the boy. Well, there it is; everything I've made in the last twelve months. Not too shabby really, considering that I've been so busy with school. I didn't realize just how many projects I got finished at the end of the summer. Hope everyone had a wonderful New Year! School just started back yesterday, so I won't have much time for sewing most likely over the next few months, but once I graduate at the beginning of May I hope to work through several more projects on my list.

***An amendment***

I realized later that the green dress I made for my cousin, was actually an October project, as I finished it over fall break, and I also made a tunic-dress from a pattern my little brother's girlfriend drafted in November. I unfortunately do not have a picture of that, but I'll make sure and take one soon. It's very comfortable, and I think I may make myself another one this spring. So, I actually didn't take a complete sewing break at all last year. I made at least one garment each month.