Works in Progress

I've got three dresses currently under construction. At this point they are all waiting for finishing work, as I have to let the hems hang before I can finish them. Then they just need a few hooks and eyes, snaps and so forth. Two of them also get belts, but I haven't gotten around to that yet. Here's a sneak peak at a couple of them. I don't actually have pictures of the first one yet, but this is the pattern I used for it.

Apparently it's no longer available from Butterick, even as an OOP, but there do seem to be a few copies floating around on Etsy and other places. I'm using some vintage fabric that mom gave me for my birthday this past year. It's a very light, white cotton with almost flocked looking red dots and a very light check pattern.

The one on the left, obviously.

The second two I have a few "in progress" pictures of, although both are more complete than when I took the photos.

The first is from Butterick 4512, also unavailable now.

I used a white cotton with light blue, irregular polka-dots. I really love the way it's turning out. I really love the pattern much more than I was anticipating. The only thing that would make it better would be some pockets! Maybe next time...

The last dress is one that I drafted myself (more or less). The bodice is from a basic block pattern that I drafted a few years ago and use frequently, and the skirt is an amalgamation of bits from two other dress patterns that I've used in the past. It's a rayon challis print that I bought with the intention of making a 1940s bathing suit from and Evadress pattern, but after I finished my maxi-dress I decided it was so comfortable I wanted another challis dress to wear. I'm super happy with how it turned out. The neckline and armholes are finished now, and all I have to do is put snaps in the side and hem it once it's hung for a few days.

The armholes took a bit of tweaking because of how the fabric stretched (This may also have been an issue that I had with the pattern before and just don't remember). However, now everything is laying nicely and sits pretty evenly. It's feels great and I really love the fit. This is definitely one that I'd love to make again. Maybe a solid black, something a little more formal, with some extra-special detailing? Hmmm....

Dreams come true in Blue Hawaii

I just couldn't help a little Elvis reference there, do pardon. I have felt a recent urge for tropical print, hawaiian inspired garments, and found this tropical print rayon challis and this shell print cotton several months ago and couldn't resist. I decided early on that I wanted the challis to make a maxi-dress out of, but wasn't exactly sure what style of dress I wanted to make. I knew I wanted something a little more structured than the standard columnar, knit maxi-dresses that are all over stores right now.

I finally got it into my head that it might be fun to use the Vogue evening gown pattern that I bought for absolutely no reason other than it was on sale and I loved it. I do not have a life that ever requires an evening gown, or likely will ever require one, so it was a silly purchase really, but what the heck. Now this pattern is definitely intended for something other than an unlined challis, but after mulling it over in my mind for a long time I decided to just go for it. I read a few reviews of the pattern before starting, and everyone seemed to recommend definitely making a muslin of the bodice at least before starting (something that I generally am very bad about doing). The admonitions of everyone else convinced me, however, and I whipped up a muslin of the bodice fairly quickly.

I had to take a little bit out at the side seams, but not much at all.

There was a bit of pulling happening at the sides of the back, but it looked like something that would fix itself once the weight of the skirt had been added, so I left it as it was and it behaved as I had anticipated once the skirt was attached.

The skirt and bodice were only basted when I took these photos, and I hadn't finished the closure or the the shoulder seams yet, but it's a pretty faithful depiction of how it looks all finished.

I'm really happy with it. The bottom shaping is wonderful (I just love godets!) and the challis is so comfortable to wear. The top is going to take a bit of getting used to, since I can't wear a bra with it and it's pretty low cut, but as long as I'm conscious of that fact while I'm wearing it I should be able to avoid any wardrobe malfunctions. I'd really kind of like to make another one, perhaps in a solid color. I haven't had a chance to wear it anywhere yet, but it's just so comfortable and elegant feeling I'd really like to have another (because I really need so many more clothes, ahem). 

The second major dress project from the last week was a 1950s inspired sarong dress. I've been itching to make one of these for quite some time now and finally sat down to figure out a pattern. I actually began with the lower bodice pieces from the above pattern and adapted them for the bodice, drafting the rest of the pattern from there.

The muslin fittings for the bodice were progressing pretty well, so I went ahead and cut out my dress fabric, using the muslin as my lining and adding boning to the side-front and side seams for a bit of extra support.

Playing around with the bodice decoration.

I got the skirt worked out pretty quickly and got the body of the dress together and took a couple of pictures before I went to bed that night to see how it was going to look with the halter strap attached.

I had originally put a kick pleat in the back (out of habit mostly), but I ended up taking it out in the end since the wrap-nature of the skirt front kind of negates it's purpose.

I wanted it to be convertible, with a strapless, halter and stole (if that's what you want to call it) option, and I also added a faux hip tie to finish off the skirt.

I was a bit lazy with my zipper and put it in by machine (something I don't generally do anymore) and I do wish I had just waited and done it by hand, but oh well. I don't regret it enough to take it out and redo it. Before I use this pattern again (which I'd like to) I'll do a bit more adjusting on the bodice pieces. I'm not 100% happy with how they fit, but for a first go-round I'm okay with it; and now I have my wardrobe taken care of next time I'm hired as an extra for an Elvis flick. 

1930s Draping Book

I found this draping book at my school library (among others) and have finally gotten around to scanning it as I can't find a copy for sale anywhere. Now that it's two weeks overdue and I'm heading back to classes in a week I figure I should take care of this little tidbit, making sure I have all the information safely saved on my computer. It's a textbook from the Women's Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences in Scranton, PA and was published in 1936. The entire book is 54 pages, but I'll share some of the illustrations with you all.

I've got another book from 1935 that I also planned on getting scanned this afternoon and will share with you soon. I've also located my camera charger and will share pictures of the plaid outfit progress later.