Friday, August 29, 2014

Stormy Weather

I'm back! It's been a while, and this is only one of a handful of projects that I've finished and haven't managed to get photographed, but I am so excited about this one I just had to share. Stat. I've been a little late to the party, but I'm finally getting myself caught up with some of the great indie pattern companies out there, and after making myself a couple of Colette Hawthorns last month (which I promise I'll show you soon), I've made my first foray into the Sewaholic library as well. I've got a Minoru jacket and some Renfrews planned, but first up is the Robson Trench Coat. I cannot tell you how much I love this coat. I had a traditional, beige trench I got at a consignment shop for cheap a few years back, and it was nice in the wet weather, but it was actually a few sizes too big and I just felt I was swimming in it every time I wore it. I decided to replace it as the first project in my "Great Coat Replacement Project" of 2014. Virtually all of my winter coats and jackets desperately need to be phased out. They are all vintage (mostly 70s), and I got them second-hand from a former co-worker about ten years ago. Those ten years have done some damage to these babies. They've been well loved, but it's time to move on, and into some new coats that actually FIT me, and aren't coming apart at the seams or shedding like a malamute in Georgia. I figured that this would be a good one to start with, as it will be a nice transition piece for the (hopefully) upcoming fall weather. Lately we've been living it was feels like a sub-tropical zone, with almost constant downpours and humidity running upwards of 70% most days. All this rain has been the perfect backdrop for working on my new trench the last few nights.

While this coat has served more or less as a wearable muslin, I'm in love. There are a few things I'll do differently (like adding a lining, changing seam finishes slightly, etc) next time around, because there is DEFINITELY going to be a next time, but I think this puppy is going to get plenty of wear.

Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat

The fabric is used is an ice blue, water resistant, cotton twill. The color doesn't really translate well in photos, but it is a much bluer color than it appears here. Being cotton, it'll wrinkle, but I got a great deal on it, and I'm ok with needing to hit it with a steam iron every now and then. The buttons are some from the giant stash of buttons my mom has. I wanted a slightly larger button than the 3/4 inch that the pattern calls for. Because Tasia's patterns are drafted for a pear shape (which I am not), I had to do a little bit of grading between sizes. I cut a 10 at the shoulders/bust, and graded down to a 6 at the waist and hips. I'm really happy with the fit, but I think I could even stand to cut it at an 8:4:6 ratio for a bit more tailored fit. I might shift the pockets up about an inch as well, since they are just a hair lower than would be really comfortable on me. I opted for double rows of top-stitching on the seams to keep the seam allowances in place, and I like the more symmetrical look.

I used a sage green cotton to bind the seam allowances, and while I love the color combination, it shows through the pale fabric just a bit more than I anticipated. 

(I just noticed that there is still a little bit of marking chalk at the buttons that I need to iron off.)

The pattern goes together really easily and fairly quickly, despite only having little bits of time here and there to work on it. Her instructions are clear, and well illustrated, and would be very accessible for the new sewer, while the style is complex enough to be fun for the more experienced sewer as well. I'm really looking forward to trying out Minoru. That is the second project in line for the "Great Coat Replacement", and I have a tomato red cotton jacketing, with a vintage ski poster print for the lining. I'm really looking forward to taking this trench for a spin when the weather starts to cool down. 

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